Road
Italy has an excellent network of motorways (autostrada), the main north-south link being the Autostrada del Sole, or A1, which links Milan with Reggio Calabria in the toe of Italy. Speed limits on motorways are 130kph (81mph) for cars of 1100cc or more and 110kph (68mph) for smaller cars.
All motorways are tolled; driving from Florence to Rome will cost approximately L25,000/EUR13. Those on a budget may prefer the strade statali (SS), which are toll free and are often fast, multi-lane carriageways. The speed limit on these roads is 110kph (68mph) - too slow for the speed-obsessed Italians and therefore a more leisurely drive for the rest of the world. Strade bianche, small country roads, abound in the countryside around Florence and are well worth exploring for their picture postcard views of the Italian countryside.
By law, both driver and passenger must wear their seatbelts, if fitted, or face an on-the-spot fine of L58,000/EUR30. Random breath tests can be imposed and the penalties for drink-driving are severe - the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%. Speeding fines follow EU standards and are levied between L59,000/EUR30.50 and L587,000/EUR303, depending on the speed. Driving through a red light costs L117,000/EUR60.50. The minimum age for driving is 18 years old. All those without an EU licence must carry an International Driving Permit. EU nationals taking their own car will need an International Insurance Certificate, also known as a Green Card (Carta Verde). Automobile Club Italiana (ACI; tel: (06) 49981 or 4477, 24-hour information) can provide further information.
Emergency breakdown service:
ACI 116
Routes to the city: The central road artery of Italy, the A1, links Florence to Milan, Bologna, Rome and Naples. Depending on the direction of approach, access is via the first exit marked Firenze (Nord or Sud), then signs for the city centre are marked (centro). There are tourist offices on the A1 north and south of the city, if navigation proves tricky. The Autostrada del Mare (A11) is the main road to Pisa and the coast, linking the city to Tuscan towns such as Lucca, Prato and Siena.
Driving times to Florence: From Bologna - 1 hour; Rome - 2 hours; Milan - 3 hours.
Coach services: International coaches depart from Lazzi station (tel: (055) 215 155 or 351 061; fax: (055) 284 427; website: www.lazzi.it), in Piazza Adua 1, next to the train station. In collaboration with Eurolines, the station runs an extensive service to major European cities, including Barcelona, Paris and Prague. The station shares facilities with the nearby train station, Firenze SMN (see above).
The blue SITA (tel: (055) 214 721 or 800 373 760 for passenger information; website: www.sita-on-line.it) coaches arrive and depart from the Sita bus station on Via Santa Caterina da Siena, west of the train station. The fast service to Siena is the most direct way to reach Florence's medieval neighbour. There are also services to Arezzo, the wine towns of Chianti (Castellina, Radda and Gaiole) and a service to San Gimignano, changing at Poggibonsi.
Rail
The Italian state railway is Ferrovie dello Stato (tel: 8488 88088 for local information; website: www.fs-on-line.com), which is reliable and fairly priced, although hefty supplements can be added depending on the type of train (Diretto, Inter-Regionale or InterCity). By law, all train tickets must be validated by stamping them in the yellow machines on the platform before boarding; failure to do so can result in a large fine.
Services operate from the central train station in Florence, Santa Maria Novella (or Firenze SMN) (tel: (055) 235 2061). Situated in the north of the city at 1 Piazza Unita'Italiana (known as Piazza della Stazione), it takes its name from the nearby church and provides a good orientation point. Facilities include an all-night pharmacy, a bureau de change, left-luggage and an accommodation booking service. The squat building at the far end of the station complex is a tourist information office.
Rail services: Florence is on the main Rome-Milan line, which ensures a fast service to Italy's most important business and tourist centres. Services include the InterCity (journey times - 3 hours 25 minutes to Milan and 2 hours 15 minutes to Rome) and the luxurious Pendolino, which links the city to Naples (journey time - 3 hours 30 minutes) - both services necessitate supplementary fares. For ports, there are regular trains to Venice (journey time - 3 hours 15 minutes), changing at Bologna, and to Genoa (journey time - 3 hours 30 minutes), changing at Pisa.
The EuroCity train service links Florence to more than 40 other European destinations, including Paris, Basel and Brussels.
Transport to the city: It is a ten-minute walk from the station to the city's key attractions. Visitors should follow Via de' Panzani, then Via de' Cerretani to reach Brunelleschi's Duomo in the heart of Renaissance Florence, or catch bus 14.
Getting around
Public Transport
There is a comprehensive bus network run by Azienda Trasporti Area Fiorentina (ATAF) (tel: (055) 565 0222; website: www.ataf.net). Tickets can be purchased at newsagents (shop signs with a capital T for tabacchi), most coffee bars at Box Ataf in Piazza Stazione and at automatic ticket dispensers. The bus network operates 0530-2400. Tickets cost L2000/EUR1 and last 60 minutes, allowing the traveller to change buses or make a return journey within the hour. They can also be purchased on board the bus but only between 2100 and 0600 and then at a marked-up price (L3000/EUR1.50).
Tickets must be validated by punching them in the machine on board the bus. A three-day bus pass can be bought for L14,000/EUR7 and a seven-day bus pass for L23,500/EUR12.
However, the best way to get around Florence is to walk. The city centre is compact and most of the sites marked by the clusters of camera-wheeling tourists. It is worth investing in a good street map, although getting lost in the cobbled alleyways is a pleasure in itself.
Taxis
Taxis can be hailed on the streets but they rarely stop. It is better to hire them at taxi ranks (outside the train station and at most tourist destinations), or telephone in advance.
Taxis are operated by Radio-Taxi (tel: (055) 4242 or 4390 or 4499 or 4798; website: www.commune.firenze.it/tariffe/taxi/htm). The minimum fare is currently L7600/EUR4 but with a base charge of L4600/EUR2.50 and a charge of about L1515/EUR0.80 per kilometre. Additional supplements are charged for luggage, night-time travel or travelling on a Sunday, thus taxi costs can mount up quickly. A tip of 10-15% of the fare is customary.
Limousines
Luxury cars, chauffeured by English-speaking drivers, are provided by International Limousine Service (tel: (041) 520 6565; fax: (041) 520 8396) or the Florence-based Mundocars (tel/fax: (055) 598 644). A Mercedes 200 costs around L600,000/EUR310 for eight hours' hire; stretch limousines should be reserved in advance.
Driving in the City
With such a compact city centre, there is little point in bringing a car to Florence. Traffic in the city centre (centro storico) is severely restricted at all times, meaning it is off limits to anyone who is not a doctor, a delivery man, a taxi driver - or staying in one of the luxury hotels in the city centre. Visitors lucky enough to be staying in luxury hotels are allowed to drive their car in for the purposes of parking only. For visitors making a day trip to Florence by car the best option is to park at the Fortezza da Basso, north of the train station. It is a brisk ten-minute walk from the city centre and costs L1500/EUR0.80 per hour, a veritable bargain by comparison to car parks further in. The length of stay should be calculated in advance and the attendant paid ahead. Those determined to spare their pins but not their pennies, could try the underground car parks at Piazza del Mercato Centrale or Piazza della Stazione, or park along the Arno - particularly convenient for visits to the Uffizi Gallery. Information on parking in the city is available from Firenze Parcheggi (tel: (055) 500 1994; website: www.firenzeparcheggi.it).
Car Hire
Several major companies have car hire offices in the city: Avis (tel: (055) 239 8826), Borgo Ognissanti 128r; Hertz (tel: (055) 282 260), Via Maso Finiguerra 33r and Maggiore (tel: (055) 294 578), Via Maso Finiguerra 31r. Drivers must be at least 23 years old, depending on company policy. All drivers without an EU licence must carry an International Driving Permit. Despite the popularity of motoring holidays, car hire in Italy is expensive, costing around L550,000/EUR284 a week.
Bicycle/Scooter Hire
To blend in with the cruising romeos, visitors can hire a scooter or moped from Alinari (tel: (055) 280 500), Via Guelfa 85r, just north of the market place. Scooters cost from L15,000/EUR7.50 an hour and L45,000/EUR23 a day. The minimum age for renting a scooter or motorbike is 18 years.
Outdoor types, fond of scaling the Florentine hills, can rent a mountain bike from L30,000/EUR15.50 a day. The less hardy can freewheel over the Ponte Vecchio on a more basic bike, with prices starting at L15,000/EUR7.50 for a day. Florence by bike (tel: (055) 488 992; website: www.florencebybike.it), Via S Sanobi 120-122r, also rents out bikes.
Business Profile
The small-scale craftsmanship that gave rise to Florence's dramatic flowering of genius, continues to flourish in the city's narrow backstreets. Handmade leather shoes and bags, exquisite marbled stationery and terracotta ornaments are just some of the goods imported around the world and into British shops like Liberty and Hobbs. Sales of wine and olive oil have boomed outside the Mediterranean since the 1970s, turning the ubiquitous olive juice into liquid gold. Tuscany's produce is widely considered to be the best and is snapped up all over the world. Chianti, too, has reinvented itself, throwing off the kitsch straw-covered flasks in favour of sleek square-shouldered bottles with serious attitude.
From its early days in wool and banking to the goldsmiths and fashion designers of today, Florence has grown fat on its mercantile enterprise. Families like the Antinori (wine) and the Strozzi (banking) continue to flourish in the city alongside international business. But it is the year-round tourist industry that has contributed most heavily to the city's bulging coffers. The tourism industry is growing - by 4.46% in 2000 - and over half the city is employed, directly or indirectly, by the tourism sector. Aside from the staffing of museums, tourist offices, restaurants and hotels, Florence also leads the way in restoration - creating techniques that are adopted around the world. Despite the noise and traffic pollution, the quality of life in the city is excellent with unemployment figures at 6.2%, about half the national average of 12.5%. Florence has one of the highest standards of living in Italy - 1996 registered the highest level of individual bank deposits in the country.
Business Etiquette
It is important to distinguish between an Italian's laid-back attitude to life and their more formal approach to business. While Florentines are immensely proud of their city and will enjoy showing off its best restaurants and finest wines, a certain degree of formality should be maintained for business matters. Appointments for meetings should be made in advance and punctuality is respected. Business cards are commonly exchanged by way of introduction. Smart dress is appropriate, as is a high degree of respect - Italian associates should always be addressed as Lei (the polite form of tu) unless otherwise indicated. Although many executives will speak English, it is advisable to conduct business in Italian if possible - Italians always appreciate a visitor who tries to speak their language, however poorly. It is common for the entertaining of clients to take place over lunch with wine offered. Evening entertainment again would be in a restaurant, or to the theatre (opera is very popular). While it is less common for an invitation to a business colleague's home, a gift of wine, chocolate or flowers for the host's wife/husband would be appropriate. Normal business hours are 0900-1700 but much of the city closes for August.
From worldtravelguide.net copyright Columbus Publishing Ltd 2000
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